On the 5th day of February, 1853, in compliance with previous arrangements, I embarked in the Jersey for New Orleans, on my way to Great Salt Lake Valley. My object was to make sketches of my principal and most interesting places on the Route, and Great Salt Lake City, which were afterwards to be published with suitable descriptions and statistics. On my return I was solicited to allow my narrative of the journey to be published likewise. I consented, although conscious of its want of completeness; indeed the particular object of my journey, and my limited time, entirely prevented me from gathering that variety and store of information, which might very properly be looked for in the narrative of a traveler. The original plan of the work, however, renders it a matter of secondary importance, for the editor will give historical, geographical, biographical, and statistical information as the narrative proceeds, and will write it up to the date of publication, an arrangement which cannot fail to make the work more acceptable, since it will enable him to embrace facts ulterior to the narrative.

After looking round the good ship, and taking a peep at the passengers who were to be my companions during the voyage to New Orleans, I selected a berth quite to my taste in the second cabin, a small house on deck fitted up with single berths for eight persons. I found, much to my satisfaction, that there were five or six pleasant fellows, of whom I already knew something. I was introduced to the Captain, a short, fat, fussy old fellow in spectacles, and, like most fat people with abundant corporations, he seemed to be tolerably good tempered. The first mate did not present so pleasant an appearance. His was a more angular body, all sharp points and corners. It was evident it would not do to run against him. His teeth that remained were long and pointed, his complexion, hair and eyebrows were dark, and he had the largest and lightest grey eyes I ever saw--they were absolutely luminous. He was an uncomfortable fellow to look at. All I can say of the crew is that they were a picturesque looking set of fellows, and I thought that if they were only as courageous and daring in a storm as they were in taking God's name in vain, the ship would not be lost for want of energy. The steerage passengers, of whom there were three hundred, were composed one half of English and the other half of Welsh, causing a confusion of tongues quite amusing until you were personally interested in what was said. They, however, managed very well, and most heartily and lustily helped each other in all kinds of work where more than one pair of hands were necessary for its accomplishment.

Just as I had completed by survey, there was a general muster for examination by the Government Medical Inspector, the strong and healthy strode up with confidence, answered questions promptly, and in a tone of independence, while the few who had been recently indisposed, nervously advanced, answered warily, and having passed examination, seemed to congratulate themselves, as if they had escaped from some great danger. One very old woman supported by two men was delayed a short time, but as she was only weak from the effects of old age, she was permitted to precede on her journey of obedience. All were healthy, or sufficiently so to warrant them in staying on board. So we were hauled out of dock, and soon after, a peddler and an old woman [p.23] with a basket of trinkets were found "stowed away" on board. The little fat captain, who turned out to be a choleric old fellow, flew at the man "like a Turk," punched his head, and blacked his eye, and sent both man and woman back by steam tug which took us out.

We were quickly towed down the Mersey, past the Rock Lighthouse and the Fort at the mouth, and the wind being fair, the sails were soon unfurled and filled, and we stood out to sea. Thoughts crowded my brain; of course I thought of old England. It is impossible to leave the land of one's birth without regret, or to leave one's kindred and friends, even for a few months, without a sigh. I wondered whether I should ever see them again, or if my ears would ever again be greeted with gentle words of affection in fond tones from their loving lips! I thought of perils on sea--tempest, fire, and disease; the dangers in strange cities, and risks among treacherous Indians; but again reflected and comforted myself with the assurance that it was childish and useless to fear, and that men died not by accident, that none fell without God's notice! I felt it was a worthy enterprise, and that the greater the difficulties the greater would be the honor if they were surmounted. Others had safely traveled over the same road, then why should not I! I knew that if I was wise I should look on the bright side of things, and like the artist with his pictures, should even make the shadow and gloom instrumental in adding interest and instruction to my trip. How tame and insipid would be his pictures if they were without shadow! Even so would be our lives if they were without their occasional trying circumstances. With what intense pleasure does the safely arrived traveler look back upon his journey and call to mind the time when, after a day's travel over a sandy desert, he arrived, weary and thirsty, at a green and shady place, watered by pure bubbling springs. He thought at the time that was the most lovely place on earth, and the water from the spring the purest and most delicious he had ever drunk. Things are good by contrast. How pleasant the green and shady place, how delicious the water, how refreshing the rest, to the jaded traveler after his day of toil! I had a chance of enduring similar temporary hardships and of experiencing moments of happiness, such as those described.

Soon the land grew less distinct, and as it became more and more grey, there rose above all other sounds the voices of men and women sweetly mingling, in tones of hear-felt feeling, in the song of--

Yes, my native land, I love thee.Then the deck became deserted, as the motion of the ship began to affect the heads and stomachs of men and women, hitherto used only to steady Terra Firma. I confess I was affected very soon. The contents of my stomach began to rebel, and at last after much threatening, and, as I thought, much unnecessary noise, jumped overboard. They seemed to say, "You may leave old England, but we won't." But whether they ever reached the land, I cannot say. I have a gloomy suspicion that they met with a watery grave. I went to the cabin where I found my fellow passengers already assembled, sitting on their boxes with all the gravity of men momentarily expecting the visitation of a grievous calamity. Young Joe H. Was already in his berth, hugging a tin basin, and I thought, from the noise he was making, that he would soon be relieved. His brother John was sitting on his box, with his large eyes wide open, looking at Leary and seeming to say, "Am I! Am I going to be sick?" While Leary with his shaven head (he had had a fever), his hands on his knees, without a vestige of color in his cheeks, did not answer audibly, but in the same language seemed to say, "Ditto! Ditto!" I turned into my berth and presently saw Leary start from his seat and rush out of the cabin; very soon John followed his example. I concluded that there would be no necessity for either of them to repeat the question, audibly or otherwise, and by this time, as the breeze freshened, and I became more giddy, I ceased to watch anyone and of necessity minded my own business. I could not help noticing, however, as the vessel began to pitch and roll, that the tin cans and provision boxes began to travel and dance about the cabin. I thought the music they danced to was very disagreeable and earnestly entreated a man still capable of locomotion to put a stop to it. Music may have charms, but it must be of a superior description, and better timed than that was, to be appreciated, and admired.

The next day the necessary instructions were given to the emigrants, relative to the regulations deemed necessary for their comfort, health, and safety. The married men and women had already been placed in the centre of the ship, and the unmarried position of the two extremities--the males at the bow and females at the stern. The whole of the passengers were divided into districts of equal numbers, with a president and two counselors to each district. These had to see that the ship was cleaned out every morning, that all lights except ship lights were put out at eight o'clock at night, and never on any account to permit a naked or uncovered light to be in the ship. These and other precautions to prevent fire were conceived to be most essential, for in truth, no calamity that can occur is so dreadful as a fire at sea. This was forcibly impressed upon mind by an accident that occurred during my voyage home. I give an extract from my Journal— [p.24]

"December 27th, 1853. --Today, as I was sitting down in the cabin enjoying a quiet game at chess, surrounded by several passengers who were watching the game, a cry of 'Fire' made all start; a pallor overspread their countenances, and again they were shocked, and they rushed tumultuously to the hatchway, at that repeated and dreadful cry. 'Where? Where?' was the earnest inquiry of one, across whose mind the recollection flashed, that barrels of turpentine formed part of the cargo. None knew, none answered. They gained the deck, dense volumes of smoke witnessed to the truth of the cry, and showed to one partially relieved heart that it was from a house on deck, and not from below, where the cargo was. Had it been there, God alone could have saved the ship. But the wind was strong, and was sighing and moaning through the rigging, and threatened, by its force, to spread the flames beyond the chance of control, if they were not soon extinguished. The men assured the women that the fire might soon be put out, and, leaving them to their lamentations, hurried for water, while one of the officers of the ship attended to the hose. All were willing to help, buckets were abundant, soon the antagonistic elements met, and, thank heaven, water was the conqueror. It saved the passengers, it might have been their grave.'

It seems to be almost impossible to convince some of the risk incurred by having uncovered lights about the ship. The most rigid discipline should therefore be observed in this respect.

The Presidents of districts also had to see that no principle of morality was violated; to meet their districts at eight, p.m., to pray with them, and to give an general instructions thought necessary; and to daily meet in council, with the president over the whole company, to report the condition of their districts, and to consult with and receive instructions from him.

The most scrupulous cleanliness was thought to be necessary; frequent fumigation and sprinkling of lime; and on warm days all sick persons, whether willing or not, were brought into the air and sunshine. The consequence was, that the general health, during the whole voyage, was most satisfactory, only one death occurring, and that of a very old woman, mentioned before, who was nearly dying when first taken on board.

The chief difficulty which was experienced was to rule the cooking galley. I do not believe that the Queen, with her Privy Council, and Houses of Lords and Commons put together, could have legislated successfully for it. Two or three revolutions occurred in it. Once the cooks were forcibly expelled. The insurgents took the poker and shovel into their own hands, and as a matter of course they burned their fingers, as all meddlers in government affairs do. Too many cooks spoiled the broth; they quarreled among themselves, and the result was that the chuckling cooks retook their honors, and were as impartial and as unpopular as ever.

Upon one occasion while the council was sitting, an old man rushed in with a saucepan of rice, and demanded justice. "Here," said he, poking the saucepan first under one man's nose, and then under another's, "here's my rice burned again; I can't, and I won't eat it; what am I to do? I haven't had anything to eat today"; and seeing one man about to speak, as he supposed not in his favor, he thrust his unanswerable argument, the burnt rice, under the man's nasal organ, and, more excited than ever, shouted, "Could you eat it?" The cook was summoned, was questioned, and said that the old man was quarrelsome, "he even quarreled with the women," and refused to put his rice into a cloth, so it was burned. Of course he hadn't time to keep stirring everybody's rice. The case was dismissed without damages being awarded; but as the old man had nothing cooked to eat I gave him some of my rice, with advice to obey counsel, and if he was determined to quarrel with so important a personage was absolute madness.

Considering all things, however, the little world behaved itself remarkably well. After a few days all became used to the motion of the ship. Sickness disappeared, and was only remembered to be laughed at. Merry groups assembled on the deck, and, sitting in the sunshine, told stories, sang songs, and cracked jokes by the hour together, and generally with a propriety most unexceptionable. William Chandless, a friendly Britisher who made a voyage similar to Piercy's in 1855, wrote of the Mormons on his ship: "As a whole, they were a good, plain, honest sort of people, simple-minded but not fools, nor yet altogether uneducated; an omnium gatherum from half-a-dozen nations, containing many excellent artizans and some tradespeople, along with a number of mere labourers and some few men of talent and cultivation....The better class pay their own expenses mainly; and though they join at Liverpool, do not travel in large bodies, or attract the attention with those emigrating by help of the 'Perpetual Emigration Fund' (and therefore necessarily collected in the charges of some 'elder') do; these are the poor and ignorant; and more shame for us there are so many such that poverty and ignorance are cause and effect. In the United States these people would have had a decent education, and in Utah their children will have, no matter how poor they are." A Visit to Salt Lake; being a journey across the plains and a residence in the Mormon settlements at Utah (London, 1857), pp.35-36.]

During the whole of the voyage the weather was charming. We left winter behind us, but as we went south we were greeted by the most delicious warmth and sunshine.

The most unimpressible must have been affected by the glorious rising and setting of the sun, by the beauty and vastness of the ocean, and by the power of the winds. I was much amused by an observation made to me by a lad who stammered very badly. He was standing by me one day, looking at the water, which was rather rough, when turning suddenly round to me, and rather excited, he said, "I t-t-tell y-y-you w-w
-hat, it seems t-t-to me, that the s-s-sea is n-n-next to God Almighty!" Taken by surprise and rather startled, I asked him why? "Why," said he, "why it s-s-seems t-t-to me th-that it c-c-could move almost anything." I rather damped his enthusiasm at his supposed discovery by asking him, if because the sea could move almost anything, it was next to God [p.25] Almighty; what was the relative position of the wind which moved the sea!

The day before we saw the first land was an exciting time for us. We had been out of sight of land so long, that some made up their minds that they would sit up all night that they might see Cape Cabron, on the north of San Domingo, the first thing in the morning. None however carried out the determination, they crept to bed one after the other, and had to be called up to see Cape Cabron in the morning. Soon after we came in sight of the main land of the island and old Cape Francais. The green color of the island of Tortuga was quite refreshing. We had been so long away from vegetation that even a distant glimpse of it afforded [p.26] pleasure. None but those who have been absent at sea for so long a period can fully appreciate the feelings inspired by such a sight. Then he we passed the island of Cuba, the largest of all the West Indian islands, and the principal colony of Spain. We soon left that island far behind us, and as we onward sped, [p.27] buoyant with hope and anticipation of soon reaching New Orleans, the wind still continued in our favor, and we very pleasantly and swiftly stretched away across the Gulf of Mexico, and next began to look out for the pilot. When we got up the last morning, before arriving at the anchorage at the mouth of the Mississippi River, we found that the water had changed from its deep ocean blue, and was already contaminated by the light muddy water of the Mississippi, and then when the pilot-boat came alongside, and the pilot got on board, there came in with him a feeling of security and satisfaction. He was an assurance of safety and seemed a sort of amphibious animal to convey us from the dangers of the deep to the security of Terra Firma.

At the bar we found a ship which had started from England two weeks before us, detained at the mouth of the river on account of the shallowness of the water. We should have remained there, too, had not our crafty old Captain represented his ship as drawing less water than she really did. The consequence was that in two or three hours a huge Mississippi steam-boat came alongside, and having bound herself to us, very soon carried us safely inside the bar. Then another boat of similar appearance took hold of us, and we began to ascend the far-famed and mighty Mississippi. [p.28]

We entered the river by the southwest channel, and passed the Balize or Pilot Station on the east, about three miles from the bar and the Lighthouse, of which the accompanying wood cut is a representation, on the west, about four miles inland. Then we passed Forts Jackson, St. Philip, and St. Leon at the English turn, then the Battleground, where the English under command of Sir Edward Packenham were in 1814-15, so signally defeated in attempting an invasion of New Orleans.

The distance from the bar to New Orleans is from 90 to 100 miles, and the Jersey was four [p.29] days in being towed up. For thirty miles from the entrance to the channel nothing is seen but muddy swamps and rushes, but above Fort Jackson the plantations commence, which are rather small at first, but as you approach New Orleans, they become finer and larger. The banks on the side of the river are very low, and as far up as New Orleans they present the same general appearance. I should judge, however, from the planters' large houses with their broad verandas, that the cultivation of the sugar cane was not there an unprofitable business.

We arrived at New Orleans on the 21st of March, having had quite a pleasure trip of a little over six weeks' duration. The number of miles traveled is seldom less than 5000, although the geographical distance, from Liverpool to this port, is only about 4400 miles.

Just before we got to New Orleans, we were told to look out for thieves in the shape of boarding-house runners, and although we could not keep them off the ship, we made up our minds they should not go below. We therefore stationed four men at each hatchway, with instructions to allow none but passengers to go down. We soon found the benefit of this arrangement, as it was as much as the guards could do to keep the blackguards on deck. They swore that they had friends below, and when asked for their names, they generally gave some of the commonest Irish ones. This, however, was quite a failure, as there was not an Irishman amongst the passengers. One fellow when told that there was no Pat Murphy on board, said it was a lie, as he never knew a ship without one. But finding our guards steady and not to be intimidated, they gave it up as a bad job, and departed, vowing vengeance to the "Mormons."

We had now entered the Great Republic of the United States of North America, and had ascended from ninety to one hundred miles into the interior of the state of Louisiana, part of the once magnificent French "Province of Louisiana," which occupied all the valley of the Mississippi east and west, from its source to the Gulf of Mexico, and our ship was moored alongside the levee of the thriving port of the city of New Orleans. [p.30]

Here the emigrants were met by Elder James Brown, the agent appointed by the Church authorities to receive and forward them up to St. Louis. This gentleman rendered every assistance to the passengers in disembarking, &c., and acted in concert with the president of the company over the sea, Elder George Halliday, in giving [p.31] service to the emigrants, and protecting them from depredation. Elated with the successful termination of the voyage to this place they soon crowded on to the levee, and made their way into the city, in the hope of finding something more tempting to the palate than the ship fare. They were however especially cautioned, before [p.32] leaving the ship, to be very careful and abstemious in the use of fresh meat and vegetables, a very necessary piece of advice to persons who had been living some weeks upon biscuit, salt pork, &c. They were also told to beware of swindlers, and their grand instrument of attack, "ardent spirits." As I [p.33] wandered through the quaint, old-fashioned city, I saw many a familiar face that I had seen on board the Jersey, at a street restaurant, enjoying a moderate meal obtained for five cents. . . . [p.34]

Just before we turned the corner into the Valley we stopped at the creek, and having [p.106] bathed and changed our clothing we at last entered as the sun was setting beyond the Great Salt Lake, a steel engraving of which is herewith given, and another 5 miles brought us to the city. Day's journey about 30 miles, making a total, according to the best accounts I could keep, of 7840 from Liverpool, thus- [p.107]

Liverpool to New Orleans. . . 5000

New Orleans to St. Louis. . . 1173

St. Louis to Kanesville. . . 620

Kanesville to Winter Quarters. . 12

Winter Quarters to Great Salt Lake City 1035

-------- 7840 [p.108]

By the time we entered Great Salt Lake City darkness had enveloped it, shutting out from my straining and inquiring eyes all details. I could see that the streets were broad, and hear the refreshing sound of water rippling and gushing by the road side. Occasionally a tall house would loom up through the gloom, and every now [p.109] and then the cheerful lights came twinkling through the cottage windows -- slight things to write about, but yet noticed with pleasure by one fresh from the plains. A happy meeting with relatives, and a few moments of wakefulness ended the 9th of August, and also ends my hastily sketched and simple narrative. [p.110]

BIB: Piercy, Frederick, Route from Liverpool to Great Salt Lake
Valley, ed. by James Linforth (Liverpool, England, pub. by Franklin R. Richards, 1855) pp.23-34, 106-10. (CHL)
(source abbreviations)